Sticky vanes...?

[DazN]

I just joined so... Hello!

I inherited my Father in law's 2010 XC90 a couple of years ago and it's been a great car (it was his since new) and we've been everywhere in it (104K miles)

It failed the MOT this year on the handbrake efficiency so we fitted the adjustors and it finally made it through. I recently had some issues with the swirl arm and Engine Service Required message so now carrying a couple of spares just in case.

The reason for my post is I think we now have a problem with the turbo and after reading many posts on here, possibly the sticky vanes issue. It first happened on an overtake whilst on holiday. I dropped it down to third and floored it and suddenly it stuttered and it felt like fuel starvation. It was fine for the rest of the holiday and has been ok apart from the occasional stutter until recently when it started to become a bit more regular. When it happens, the car still drives but it is just like the turbo has been switched off and it obviously has massively reduced power. No warning lights on the dashboard. This weekend it did it again and, whilst waiting at a level crossing I turned it off and then started it again and the turbo was back to normal operation.

Does this sound like sticky vanes or something else? I am getting the codes read this week and see if we can narrow it down a little.

I came close to trading the old girl in for something new last week but I couldn't quite bring myself to do it. The new car I drove wasn't half the quality of the XC90 and it was going to sort me back £20K. The XC90 owes me nothing so I thought she deserved another shot (I also have no power steering at low speeds now so this is another issue that needs investigating!)

Unless of course, you all convince me I should have traded the old beast in for something newer and more plasticky?

[Lancee]

First thing is it is imperative to get any fault codes read with a DECENT, preferably Volvo code reader. Then just get the car fixed as it sounds like a car very much worth keeping.

If you have any future issues with the handbrake efficiency, make sure you have Volvo original shoes fitted.

I do wonder what the depreciation on the considered £20,000 replacement car would be ? I suggest that the first years figure would likely easily pay for any repair you might need to your present car ? If you are fortunate enough to have £20,000 spare, leave it in the bank and have some interest. If not, save on the financing costs on £20,000 ?

[DazN]

Originally Posted by Lancee

First thing is it is imperative to get any fault codes read with a DECENT, preferably Volvo code reader. Then just get the car fixed as it sounds like a car very much worth keeping.

If you have any future issues with the handbrake efficiency, make sure you have Volvo original shoes fitted.

I do wonder what the depreciation on the considered £20,000 replacement car would be ? I suggest that the first years figure would likely easily pay for any repair you might need to your present car ? If you are fortunate enough to have £20,000 spare, leave it in the bank and have some interest. If not, save on the financing costs on £20,000 ?

This was pretty much the thing that made me stop and think. Let's say I pay £20K for a car and by the time it's paid for it's worth £12K... Plus after the test drive I got back in the Volvo and it made me realise how much I like the car despite it's current woes!

[Simmy]

diagnostic check should show what's happening check to see if your car has the vacuum engine mounts if it has and they are not holding vacuum this can cause limp mode it was quite common on the earlier cars try to get the codes read. also have a look at intercooler and hoses for any leaks its common for old intercoolers to split or bow.

[DazN]

Originally Posted by Simmy

diagnostic check should show what's happening check to see if your car has the vacuum engine mounts if it has and they are not holding vacuum this can cause limp mode it was quite common on the earlier cars try to get the codes read. also have a look at intercooler and hoses for any leaks its common for old intercoolers to split or bow.

Is 'limp mode' an actual thing ... ie will it show up as a code/event? Obviously there is no feedback from the dash (no lights)

[GrahamBrown1]

Sticky vanes did sometimes effect the older euro 3 engines which turbos are vac controlled. Yours on the newer euro 4 engine is electronically controlled. I’ve not seen any of these with stuck vanes but have seen faults with the electronic actuator. But you obviously need have it professionally diagnosed as others have mentioned.

[Simmy]

yes limp mode is an actual thing its an inbuilt thing to stop you damaging the engine and to make you seek mechanical repair. ask if any one near you has vida and will read your codes to find your fault. vida can read all modules and read live data to test components. how long since the fuel filter was changed a dirty filter would also give the symptoms described

[DazN]

Ok so someone at my son's cricket team is a mechanic and brought his diagnostic kit along tonight and read the codes for me...

He said there were multiple instances of ECM-1540 which I believe is Turbo pressure too high?

[DazN]

Originally Posted by Simmy

yes limp mode is an actual thing its an inbuilt thing to stop you damaging the engine and to make you seek mechanical repair. ask if any one near you has vida and will read your codes to find your fault. vida can read all modules and read live data to test components. how long since the fuel filter was changed a dirty filter would also give the symptoms described

Hmmm I did suspect fuel when it first happened, but it definitely feels boost related now that it's happened a few times.

[Mike A]

I would certainly change fuel filter for a start as this can give the same symptoms