Electrics: 850: - Ignition Coil

volvo2 · Dec 29th, 2018, 15:41

1994, Volvo 850, 200k miles

How long does the ignition coil last? Anyone replaced theirs?

I sometimes have difficulty starting and wonder if it could be the coil. Have already replaced distributor parts and cables.

Nick850GLT · Jun 26th, 2024, 16:36

Interested to know if you have got anywhere with this?
I have the same car - also in Worcestershire (Malvern) - with 250k on the clock. The engine has just started to run a bit rough - juddering a bit a low revs.
Initial diagnosis was a random misfire, so I replaced leads, plugs, rotor arm and distributor cap - all to no effect. Back to wondering if the coil might be in partial failure.
Various folk have suggested air leaks - but I can't find anything.

PSJVTHEBEST · Jun 27th, 2024, 13:24

Mine had similar issues at the end of a long drawn out component replacement process (I know that's not the most efficient way of going about fault diagnosis btw) but it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. But I had cleaned and replaced virtually everything before that! Idle control valve may be worth a clean too - easy and cheap!

Nick850GLT · Jun 27th, 2024, 20:03

Many thanks PSJVTHEBEST - probably worth a try for about £30 - that won't get me far on a garage bill to find the problem!

volvo2 · Jul 7th, 2024, 15:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick850GLT

Interested to know if you have got anywhere with this?
I have the same car - also in Worcestershire (Malvern) - with 250k on the clock. The engine has just started to run a bit rough - juddering a bit a low revs.
Initial diagnosis was a random misfire, so I replaced leads, plugs, rotor arm and distributor cap - all to no effect. Back to wondering if the coil might be in partial failure.
Various folk have suggested air leaks - but I can't find anything.

Yes, I cleaned the Idle control valve, replaced the fuel pump relay, distributor cap, rotor, and cables, along with the cam shaft sensor, and thankfully the problem went away.

Nick850GLT · Jul 7th, 2024, 16:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by volvo2

Yes, I cleaned the Idle control valve, replaced the fuel pump relay, distributor cap, rotor, and cables, along with the cam shaft sensor, and thankfully the problem went away.

Thanks for responding. Any idea which item actually did the trick?
As far as I understand it, the idle control valve could cause erratic idle (revs varying), but perhaps not the rough/judder I've got.
Also, did you change the coil?
The garage has my car at the moment - and have just had a total failure, car now won't start and they think the coil has died. I'm just hoping that isn't a mis-diagnosis caused by something else, like the brand new crank sensor! (Too many times I've seen the newest item die, with a journey up the garden path resulting)
After that cleaning the throttle body and chasing fuel problems may be on the list.

Thanks to others for various suggestions. Will update as and when.....

volvo2 · Jul 9th, 2024, 16:13

I did not change the coil. I think in my case that changing the cables and cleaning the distributor is what did the trick.

Clan · Jun 27th, 2024, 14:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by volvo2

1994, Volvo 850, 200k miles

How long does the ignition coil last? Anyone replaced theirs?

I sometimes have difficulty starting and wonder if it could be the coil. Have already replaced distributor parts and cables.

Never known one fail yet. they are the highest Bosch quality.

Luxobarge · Jun 27th, 2024, 15:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clan

Never known one fail yet. they are the highest Bosch quality.

Seconded.

SteveSarre · Jun 27th, 2024, 20:14

For me, I have found that the engine "hunts" (alternately speeds up and slows down), when at idle, when the Idle air control valve is bad.

When the IACV is bad, the internal cylinder jams and will not rotate. Don't force it. You can try cleaning with carb cleaner.

A good candidate for a poor idling is the small rubber elbow under the end of the intake manifold furthest from the battery. They tend to split.
You can replace it yourself without removing the intake manifold if you have some curved forceps or needle nose pliers. The elbow itself is cheap.

If you have replaced plugs did you use the right Volvo brand and model (turbo plugs differ from non turbo)? If you have replaced leads, did you replace the sixth lead that goes to the coil? I think it is called the Queen lead.

If searching for a leak, then spraying brake cleaner around can sometimes pinpoint the location.

Hope that helps,
Steve

Dec 29th, 2018, 15:41	#1
volvo2 Master Member Last Online: Yesterday 09:07 Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Evesham	Ignition Coil 1994, Volvo 850, 200k miles How long does the ignition coil last? Anyone replaced theirs? I sometimes have difficulty starting and wonder if it could be the coil. Have already replaced distributor parts and cables.

Jun 26th, 2024, 16:36	#2
Nick850GLT New Member Last Online: Jul 21st, 2024 19:19 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Malvern	Similar problem? Interested to know if you have got anywhere with this? I have the same car - also in Worcestershire (Malvern) - with 250k on the clock. The engine has just started to run a bit rough - juddering a bit a low revs. Initial diagnosis was a random misfire, so I replaced leads, plugs, rotor arm and distributor cap - all to no effect. Back to wondering if the coil might be in partial failure. Various folk have suggested air leaks - but I can't find anything.

Jun 27th, 2024, 20:14	#10
SteveSarre Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 06:07 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: London/West Country	For me, I have found that the engine "hunts" (alternately speeds up and slows down), when at idle, when the Idle air control valve is bad. When the IACV is bad, the internal cylinder jams and will not rotate. Don't force it. You can try cleaning with carb cleaner. A good candidate for a poor idling is the small rubber elbow under the end of the intake manifold furthest from the battery. They tend to split. You can replace it yourself without removing the intake manifold if you have some curved forceps or needle nose pliers. The elbow itself is cheap. If you have replaced plugs did you use the right Volvo brand and model (turbo plugs differ from non turbo)? If you have replaced leads, did you replace the sixth lead that goes to the coil? I think it is called the Queen lead. If searching for a leak, then spraying brake cleaner around can sometimes pinpoint the location. Hope that helps, Steve __________________ V70 V70 2.4D D 5244 T (E4 engine) 2401cc 163HP manual six speed 2006 blue V70 2.5 Turbo AWD Man. 1999 Red C70 T5 Auto Conv. 2000 Blue V70 2.5 Turbo AWD Auto 1998 Green

Jun 27th, 2024, 13:24	#3
PSJVTHEBEST VOC Member Last Online: Jul 21st, 2024 18:52 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Tiverton	Mine had similar issues at the end of a long drawn out component replacement process (I know that's not the most efficient way of going about fault diagnosis btw) but it turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. But I had cleaned and replaced virtually everything before that! Idle control valve may be worth a clean too - easy and cheap!

Jun 27th, 2024, 20:03	#4
Nick850GLT New Member Last Online: Jul 21st, 2024 19:19 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Malvern	Many thanks PSJVTHEBEST - probably worth a try for about £30 - that won't get me far on a garage bill to find the problem!

Jul 9th, 2024, 16:13	#7
volvo2 Master Member Last Online: Yesterday 09:07 Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Evesham	I did not change the coil. I think in my case that changing the cables and cleaning the distributor is what did the trick.

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