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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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Lower Control Arm ReplacementViews : 11799 Replies : 39Users Viewing This Thread : |
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#1 |
New Member
Last Online: Aug 31st, 2011 10:38
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Suffolk
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Hi Having a nightmare replacing my lower control arm on 2002 V70.
Can anyone list the sequence of actions I need to do as am half way through, trapped my finger and now can't even think straight! Do I need to disconnect steering arm ball joint and anti-roll bar link? Thanks |
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#2 |
New Member
Last Online: Aug 31st, 2011 10:38
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Suffolk
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I have the drive shaft out, but antiroll bar link, steering arm and strut upper still attached to hub.
Do people use a ratchet strap to pull the lower control arm down while manhandling the strut to get the ball joint in and driveshaft in at the same time? thanks |
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#3 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Oct 20th, 2021 11:41
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Ramelton
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It is possible without using a ratchet strap but some advice I have seen posted seems to indicate to use one . I replaced a front wheel bearing on a 2001 V70 a few weeks ago and had drive shaft drop links and steering joint off and didnt need much force to push the control arm down . You need to be extra careful with the front drive shaft keep it well supported with string holding it up while you work , too much movement outwards will dislocate the bearings , I have had a garage had to replace a full drive shaft costing £350 because they did not relocate it properly on re assembly following control arm replacement . Also there was one instance on this forum of a mechanic putting the control arms upside down on the wrong side .
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#4 |
GoldMember
Last Online: Mar 10th, 2016 17:58
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: SomewhereInTheSouthOfEngland
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Sorry for the threadromancy here, but I was searching on ARB bush issues and saw your post.
There's a way to remove the wishbones that I call the Granny Method (it's so easy, your granny could do it ... though whether she'd be willing to is another matter). Simply remove the steering knuckle (hub carrier), which I promise is REALLY, REALLY easy and not only do you have tons of space freed up, but the wishbone sits totally free. Things you'll need : - - Two strut to hub securing (stretch) bolts - (Probably) the plastic seal that sits between driveshaft and hub. - Driveshaft to hub (stretch) bolt - Threadlocking compound 1) - Get a cheap-ass, plastic Vernier caliper and measure the strut/knuckle width as shown in Haynes. 2) - Remove the driveshaft end bolt (with the other wheel on the ground, put it in first gear) and brake caliper (support with wire, as without a wishone it has nowhere to rest). 3) - Remove the brake disc (one bolt), backplate (3 bolts) and ABS sensor. 4) - Detach the trackrod end (hold the stud with an adjustable spanner ... trust me, it works) and remove the bottom balljoint nut. 5) - If you have an XC90 driveshaft bolt fitted, hoik the rubber cone out from the hub (and re-use on reassembly) and using a 1/2-drive extension, drift the driveshaft into the hub (hang it with wire) and remove the hub - recovering the plastic driveshaft endseal as you go. 6) - Get your granny to remove the wishbone, just to prove to yourself how easy it is. On reassembly, you can re-use the caliper bolts, but clean them up with a small screwdriver in the threads (if necessary) and re-lock with compound. Put a little WD40 on the driveshaft splines for a smooth outcome. When torquing up the strut bolts, tighten the bottom one up until you can JUST move the hub, then the same for the top one - this makes adjusting the 'Vernier' gap really easy. Sounds MUCH more complicated than it is - but it's actually really quick and requires no muscles whatsoever.
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S80 D5-S manual (facelift) MY04 (avec V70 driver's seat) Last edited by Dynosaur; May 1st, 2010 at 10:21. |
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#5 |
Master Member
Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 14:00
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Rozenburg NL
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Hope thread from the dead isn't punished here...
I ended up doing what Dynosaur wrote, but without measuring the strut knuckle width. (1) because the English words are too confusing and I read it up front but it didn't make enough sense, (2) I don't have Haynes so no clue what is meant (3) because we were desperate and my brother-in-law (and S80 owner who had done his wishbones and struts before) just took the decision to do so. After about 10 hours trying to get the rotating (outer) bolts in the wishbones/control arm, he could have sawn off the the entire gearbox and I would still have thanked him if it had solved the issue... So how screwed am I not having the two bolts attaching the wheel/brakes to the suspention/strut in exactly the same position? Is this something that is checked/fixed in a 4-wheel alignment? I do not see how this works, as there isn't much play to adjust the angle of the wheel, and even if there is, would just tensioning the bolt keep it at that setting? There's no grooves or anything fixing it in that position. Even in a bicycle, where forces are WAAY smaller, you have a construction locking the rear-axle in place (pulling it backwards) and you don't rely on the axle-bolts in keeping the axle in place. But that is what Volvo does in their front wheel vertical alignment? EDIT: I did not take off the disk or the brakes. I imagine it saves you some 7-8kg if you do!!!!!! Well worth it, as the remaining parts you have to manouvre will weigh next to nothing whereas in my case, they were bloody heavy!!! (extra chance of damaging the gaitor with all that weight resting on it at one point or another during manouvering, that's probably what cost me my gaitor...)
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Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it. ![]() Last edited by R-P; Feb 23rd, 2014 at 11:28. |
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#6 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Oct 20th, 2021 11:41
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Ramelton
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If its the two 18mm head bolts then its just the top one that matters and its hole only has about 2mm so you can adjust camber. I thought that tyre scrubbing problems on my V70 were caused by incorrect camber adjustment so I tried adjusting it maximum positive( top of the road wheel leaning outwards?) which made no difference to tyre wear or the driving although obviously it must have an affect, getting the tracking and wheel alignment correct made all the difference. In my opinion wheel alignment should include camber, it takes a garage 5 minutes to check and adjust it but I dont know these days if you would need to ask to have it done.
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#7 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Jun 8th, 2022 22:38
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Here
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Glad you did what Dynosaur said. It's an absolute doddle - dead easy. WHen I did mine, I bought some used knuckles and constructed complete units with arms ready to go, and installed in one go - an absolute breeze! Very little levering, etc, required.
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#8 |
New Member
Last Online: Jul 4th, 2024 15:10
Join Date: Jun 2024
Location: Mayo
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Apologies for this late text on this thread.
Can't seem to find the solution . One bolt on the wishbone is so rusted away that just spins in itself and mechanic can't take it out....any ideas how to proceed? Grateful for any reply Last edited by LuisC; Jul 3rd, 2024 at 16:42. |
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#9 |
just trying to be helpful
Last Online: Today 12:43
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Dagenham
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we did ask before on that same question (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=340832) which bolt? the advice would vary depending if its the vertical rear bolt or one of the two horizontal bolts from the other side of the subframe
if the latter, can you at least undo the other one and get the wishbone off. replacing it would be a case of ordering a new bolt (obviously) then jacking the engine up slightly and carefully to get enough clearance you may or may not need to remove the engine mount under the pulley end and the top mount to allow it to rock over that way sufficently to allow clearance ? others might be able to confirm that I've not done it Last edited by stuart bowes; Jul 3rd, 2024 at 16:57. |
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#10 |
just trying to be helpful
Last Online: Today 12:43
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Dagenham
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if you do end up taking the drivers side engine mount off for movement, consider replacing it at the same time because it's not hugely expensive and you've done half the work already
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165475744...Bk9SR5DClJWPZA or similar |
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