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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Bent Push RodViews : 2723 Replies : 39Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 27th, 2024, 14:36 | #21 |
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I'll try washing it off. That makes me feel a little better. Thanks!
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Jul 3rd, 2024, 14:53 | #22 |
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I put the new push rod in and adjusted the valves. They really weren't that out of spec in my opinion. I would say the worst one was maybe .022"/.024". The springs don't look like they are binding so I'm a little confused why this happened. The engine seems to be running fine and I have compression in cylinder #1 again.
I'm a little worried about my oil pressure. I'm getting 20-30psi (I haven't revved the engine past 2.5k rpm or left the garage yet) on a gauge I installed. I'm using Royal Purple Engine Break In Oil that is 10W30. So maybe that could be it. Does that valve train look dry (this was after running engine for 1-2minutes)? |
Jul 3rd, 2024, 16:50 | #23 |
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I am thinking that you might have a flow issue. On my B20E, if I remove the oil filler cap at idle I will get sprayed with oil being flung off the #1 rockers.
When I started up my B20E after its rebuild, I removed the oil pressure switch and manually rotated the engine over multiple times until I got oil at the oil pressure switch port, re installed the switch and then with the spark plugs out used the starting motor to turn the motor over until I got oil coming out of the rocker stand. If the engine had been running for 2 minutes I expect that you should have oil flow at the rocker stand. There is a procedure where you can remove the distributor and with an appropriate adapter use an electric drill to rotate the oil pump drive to cause oil to flow through the engine prior to a first start. The down side is that sometimes getting the distributor mated up with the oil pump again with everything in the correct position for timing can be an exercise in frustration. I would be inclined to pull the plugs and crank the engine to confirm that you are getting flow out of the rocker stand. As I recall, oil flow comes up through the block between cylinders 2 and 3 and then takes a little bend through the head and enters the base of the third rocker stand. All 4 rocker stands have the same part number so it does not appear that mixing the stands during re assembly could cause a problem. If you ae not getting good flow then I would be inclined to remove the rocker stand and then crank the engine to see if you are getting good flow at the #3 rocker stand base. If not, then I think you have some disassembly to check for a flow obstructions. If you are getting good flow, then you may have to partially disassemble the rocker stand to check for obstructions. At 850 RPM idle, my engine with a new oil pump has a pressure of about 15- 20 psi running 5W50 full synthetic. Oil pressure very much depends on temperature. On a warm / hot day, 20 psi at idle with 10W30 is probably in the ball park. Last edited by 142 Guy; Jul 3rd, 2024 at 16:53. |
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Jul 3rd, 2024, 17:20 | #24 |
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CA;
I agree with 142Guy...I would also expect oil at the rockerworks and under the Valvecover after 2 min of runtime...and since you've experienced a Bent Push Rod, this could very likely have something to do with it (likely be the cause, so you may have just found the root cause...!). If it was me, I'd remove the entire Rockershaft assembly, disable Ign, pull Sparkplugs and crank away...there better be oil getting pumped up to the Rockershaft assembly! Good Hunting! |
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Jul 4th, 2024, 11:14 | #25 |
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Two minutes is far too long, something not right.
After I rebuilt my B18 I turned it over (plugs out) using a somewhat tired starter on a somewhat weak battery and had oil flinging off the rockers in the space of around 15-30 seconds. I suspect a blockage or a problem with the oil pump. |
Jul 6th, 2024, 14:48 | #26 |
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I removed the rocker shaft/stands and I have no oil coming up after cranking. So something is definitely not right.
I was working on my other Volvo yesterday and within 10 seconds of cranking I had 60 psi of oil pressure. This is basically the same car/engine and has the same gauge and the gauge is connected exactly like it is on the 121 I'm having issues with. I don't have a lot of experience with the oil system. What would be the recommended troubleshooting procedure? I guess it is possible there is blockage between the block and the head but I don't necessarily want to take the head off right away. I'm thinking I will start with removing the oil pan and inspecting the oil pump since I feel like that might be the reason for the low oil pressure. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thank You! |
Jul 6th, 2024, 16:00 | #27 |
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CA;
Before going into the depths of the engine, I'd follow 142Guy's excellent suggestion of removing the Oil Pressure Sender and cranking to confirm that the Oil Pump is pumping and making pressure (which could be verified with a fingertip on the orifice while pumping). Location of OPS is on the main oil gallery just downstream of the filter (I've added it to the factory graphic below, where it was strangely not included)...if it is making pressure, then a flow blockage to the downstream Cyl Head is suspect...if it is not making pressure, the Oil Pipe Sealing Rings may not be sealing and bleeding oil pressure (I've heard of this happening as a result of a careless rebuild...)...or some other issue in the bottom end exists, needing internal investigation... Have you had the Cyl Head off or replaced the head gasket? There is a hole in the oil path to Cyl Head which aligns with engine block and this must obviously be clear and not blocked in any way (normally it isn't, as in the standard Elring gasket...). Good Hunting! |
Jul 6th, 2024, 18:23 | #28 |
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3 or 4 years ago I was out driving my 142 E around and all of a sudden the oil pressure collapsed when idling at red lights. By revving the engine I was able to get the pressure up and get the car home. I initially suspected that my electronic oil pressure gauge might have had a sender failure so I disconnected the sender and pressure switch at the port that Ron marked and attached a mechanical oil pressure gauge. No love! With spark plugs out and cranking using the starter motor I was only generating a couple of psi of pressure. My oil pump went from hero to zero in the span of about 15 seconds. There were no early signs of declining pressure due to wear.
If you get good pressure at the oil pressure switch port, I think the next course of action is to remove the head and hope that there is some obstruction at the head gasket that is blocking flow. If you have low pressure at the port that is either an oil pump issue, a blockage in a gallery or some strange issue with a bearing where oil is flowing like crazy and preventing pressure build up. An oil pump change can be done with the engine still in the car. In general, anything to do with the block requires removal of the engine from the car. I have read comments about the rubber sealing rings on either end of the pipe that connects the pump to the block popping off and resulting in pressure loss. If you look at that connecting pipe and the retaining bulge on each pipe end there is no way that the seal is going to squeeze past that bulge and release oil. The seal, pipe and its bulge are a very tight fit - getting the pipe and seal into the respective holes on the pump and the block was a definite grunt and that seal is not coming out unless it dissolves. If someone forgot to install the sealing ring(s) or did not get the pipe properly seated at either end that could result in low flow / pressure right from the get go. However, I don't think you can properly mount the pump unless the oil delivery pipe is also correctly installed. I replaced my original pump with a Melling cast iron pump that I picked up from Rock Auto. I pulled the original pump apart and could find no obvious problem. When I rebuilt the engine years ago I had replaced the pressure relief spring with a stronger spring from IPD and that was intact and the pressure relief valve appeared to be sealing correctly. There is a spec for clearance between the pump gears and the end plate. Measuring that is a treat and as best as I could determine I was close to the upper limit on clearance; but, still within spec. I was never able to conclusively determine what caused my pump to go from just fine to failure so quickly. |
Jul 6th, 2024, 23:17 | #29 |
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My oil pressure gauge is connected at the stock OPS location just below the oil filter with a "T" fitting. If my gauge is reading pressure I'm thinking my oil pump is working but maybe not working properly.
I have never had the head off. But I'm thinking that might be the next step since there just isn't any oil coming up to the top. I'm just wondering if it's worth pulling the oil pan off and inspecting the oil pump before I bite the bullet and pull the head off. |
Jul 7th, 2024, 11:28 | #30 |
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If it’s had a rebuild by others one area to check is the crank plugs, not sure if this applies to the red block but most cranks have lead bungs to seal the drill paths into the crank oil galleries, it’s common to drill them out to thoroughly clean the galleries if one was missed or has come loose you have a direct leak back to sump, if there are no such plugs ignore me
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