Feeler: V70 TDi auto for sale or breaking (MoT fail)

[CPH]

Right, I'm not sure what I'm doing with the old girl yet but it's failed its MoT test in spectacular fashion yesterday.

It's going to cost about £600 in parts (that's doing it properly, it could probably be done for a lot less if you have the time and mechanical skills) to get back on the road.

I probably won't have the time to do all the work myself before the retest period expires so I'm putting it out there for anyone who might be interested in the car as a whole or if there's enough interest to consider breaking it for parts.

It has some very good features and has had a lot spent on it in the last 18 months or so.

Front suspension is very good - everything between the chassis and steering knuckle was renewed not so long ago - KYB springs, Bilstein shocks, genuine Volvo strut bearings etc.

Rears suspension is likewise very recent with Monroe load levellers and MAD progressive towing springs (at a cost of £200.00 alone). I still have the original rear springs if anyone wants them, just saying.

At the end of the summer I fitted a set of higher flowing injectors - 0.240 nozzles, from United Diesel. These cost me a lot and are still very new and might be useful to somebody.

Bodywork is above average for its year. The tailgate and front/rear bumpers were repainted only a couple of months ago.

The engine is good and pulls strong. The gearbox is also good and has an external aftermarket cooler fitted to prevent it from overheating while towing the van - it's always done a very good job at keeping things cool.

Interior is average I suppose but always comes up well after a good clean.

Now for the list of MoT failures:

Rear offside calliper sticking and brake disc warped (If I fixed it I would replace both rear callipers, discs and pads)

Handbrake cable snapped during the test - not sure which side but there's no handbrake at all at the moment. I would have replaced both sides just for the sake of knowing they were both good.

Both front CV boots need replacing - again if I were repairing it I'd replace the entire drive shaft just for the sake of convenience as the CV joints are well shot in any case and new shafts with 2 year warranty are in the region of £130 for a pair.

Both rear tyres need replacing.

Indicator bulbs have lost their orange-ness, easy to fix.

Front nearside suspension arm needs replacing as the balljoint is shot.

There's a leak on the fuel tank where the filler neck clamps to the tank. Not sure what the extent of the leak is, it's been like it for years and providing it's not full to the brim it doesn't leak - I guess the tank was a bit more full this MoT than it normally is as the tester never noticed it before.

There's an ABS fault (although this wasn't picked up in the test) which could be either a wheel sensor and/or the ABS ECU - in any case I have both ready to go on the car.

If anyone was interested in the car as it is, while it's still drivable for the next two weeks, then I also have an old Dell laptop with VOL-FCR loaded onto it that I would be happy to include with the sale IF this isn't illegal.

I do also have a plug in fault code reader for Volvo and Saab cars which will likely be no good to me if I shift the car on.

I have a full Gates timing belt kit (not including the pump timing bits though) and genuine Volvo crank pulley holding tool.

Lastly (I think) I have a late model RonBox which was reconditioned by Ron after it packed up during the summer. Since I received it back from Ron after being repaired I had the injectors fitted so it has never been back on the car.

Like I say I'm torn with what to do with the old girl so don't shout at me if I choose to do nothing. I wanted to put it out there in case somebody wanted a project or enough people needed parts to make it viable for breaking.

[Martin Cox]

I well understand your dilemma. I too have a V70 TDi auto on which the cambelt failed about a fortnight ago. I'm still weighing up what to do with it but my gut feeling is it's probably repairable but it only really makes sense if I do it myself.

Whatever you decide to do about the car, I may well be interested in the crank holding tool since that's the bit that worries me most.

Best wishes

Martin

[rudi dudi]

How much ?

[fastT5]

Originally Posted by CPH

Right, I'm not sure what I'm doing with the old girl yet but it's failed its MoT test in spectacular fashion yesterday.

It's going to cost about £600 in parts (that's doing it properly, it could probably be done for a lot less if you have the time and mechanical skills) to get back on the road.

I probably won't have the time to do all the work myself before the retest period expires so I'm putting it out there for anyone who might be interested in the car as a whole or if there's enough interest to consider breaking it for parts.

It has some very good features and has had a lot spent on it in the last 18 months or so.

Front suspension is very good - everything between the chassis and steering knuckle was renewed not so long ago - KYB springs, Bilstein shocks, genuine Volvo strut bearings etc.

Rears suspension is likewise very recent with Monroe load levellers and MAD progressive towing springs (at a cost of £200.00 alone). I still have the original rear springs if anyone wants them, just saying.

At the end of the summer I fitted a set of higher flowing injectors - 0.240 nozzles, from United Diesel. These cost me a lot and are still very new and might be useful to somebody.

Bodywork is above average for its year. The tailgate and front/rear bumpers were repainted only a couple of months ago.

The engine is good and pulls strong. The gearbox is also good and has an external aftermarket cooler fitted to prevent it from overheating while towing the van - it's always done a very good job at keeping things cool.

Interior is average I suppose but always comes up well after a good clean.

Now for the list of MoT failures:

Rear offside calliper sticking and brake disc warped (If I fixed it I would replace both rear callipers, discs and pads)

Handbrake cable snapped during the test - not sure which side but there's no handbrake at all at the moment. I would have replaced both sides just for the sake of knowing they were both good.

Both front CV boots need replacing - again if I were repairing it I'd replace the entire drive shaft just for the sake of convenience as the CV joints are well shot in any case and new shafts with 2 year warranty are in the region of £130 for a pair.

Both rear tyres need replacing.

Indicator bulbs have lost their orange-ness, easy to fix.

Front nearside suspension arm needs replacing as the balljoint is shot.

There's a leak on the fuel tank where the filler neck clamps to the tank. Not sure what the extent of the leak is, it's been like it for years and providing it's not full to the brim it doesn't leak - I guess the tank was a bit more full this MoT than it normally is as the tester never noticed it before.

There's an ABS fault (although this wasn't picked up in the test) which could be either a wheel sensor and/or the ABS ECU - in any case I have both ready to go on the car.

If anyone was interested in the car as it is, while it's still drivable for the next two weeks, then I also have an old Dell laptop with VOL-FCR loaded onto it that I would be happy to include with the sale IF this isn't illegal.

I do also have a plug in fault code reader for Volvo and Saab cars which will likely be no good to me if I shift the car on.

I have a full Gates timing belt kit (not including the pump timing bits though) and genuine Volvo crank pulley holding tool.

Lastly (I think) I have a late model RonBox which was reconditioned by Ron after it packed up during the summer. Since I received it back from Ron after being repaired I had the injectors fitted so it has never been back on the car.

Like I say I'm torn with what to do with the old girl so don't shout at me if I choose to do nothing. I wanted to put it out there in case somebody wanted a project or enough people needed parts to make it viable for breaking.

Hi do you still have the timing belt kit , gates . My car is a 1999 v70 tdi 2.5 , and the cam or crank locking tool . Also the fault code reader .
Thanks

[fastT5]

Originally Posted by CPH

Right, I'm not sure what I'm doing with the old girl yet but it's failed its MoT test in spectacular fashion yesterday.

It's going to cost about £600 in parts (that's doing it properly, it could probably be done for a lot less if you have the time and mechanical skills) to get back on the road.

I probably won't have the time to do all the work myself before the retest period expires so I'm putting it out there for anyone who might be interested in the car as a whole or if there's enough interest to consider breaking it for parts.

It has some very good features and has had a lot spent on it in the last 18 months or so.

Front suspension is very good - everything between the chassis and steering knuckle was renewed not so long ago - KYB springs, Bilstein shocks, genuine Volvo strut bearings etc.

Rears suspension is likewise very recent with Monroe load levellers and MAD progressive towing springs (at a cost of £200.00 alone). I still have the original rear springs if anyone wants them, just saying.

At the end of the summer I fitted a set of higher flowing injectors - 0.240 nozzles, from United Diesel. These cost me a lot and are still very new and might be useful to somebody.

Bodywork is above average for its year. The tailgate and front/rear bumpers were repainted only a couple of months ago.

The engine is good and pulls strong. The gearbox is also good and has an external aftermarket cooler fitted to prevent it from overheating while towing the van - it's always done a very good job at keeping things cool.

Interior is average I suppose but always comes up well after a good clean.

Now for the list of MoT failures:

Rear offside calliper sticking and brake disc warped (If I fixed it I would replace both rear callipers, discs and pads)

Handbrake cable snapped during the test - not sure which side but there's no handbrake at all at the moment. I would have replaced both sides just for the sake of knowing they were both good.

Both front CV boots need replacing - again if I were repairing it I'd replace the entire drive shaft just for the sake of convenience as the CV joints are well shot in any case and new shafts with 2 year warranty are in the region of £130 for a pair.

Both rear tyres need replacing.

Indicator bulbs have lost their orange-ness, easy to fix.

Front nearside suspension arm needs replacing as the balljoint is shot.

There's a leak on the fuel tank where the filler neck clamps to the tank. Not sure what the extent of the leak is, it's been like it for years and providing it's not full to the brim it doesn't leak - I guess the tank was a bit more full this MoT than it normally is as the tester never noticed it before.

There's an ABS fault (although this wasn't picked up in the test) which could be either a wheel sensor and/or the ABS ECU - in any case I have both ready to go on the car.

If anyone was interested in the car as it is, while it's still drivable for the next two weeks, then I also have an old Dell laptop with VOL-FCR loaded onto it that I would be happy to include with the sale IF this isn't illegal.

I do also have a plug in fault code reader for Volvo and Saab cars which will likely be no good to me if I shift the car on.

I have a full Gates timing belt kit (not including the pump timing bits though) and genuine Volvo crank pulley holding tool.

Lastly (I think) I have a late model RonBox which was reconditioned by Ron after it packed up during the summer. Since I received it back from Ron after being repaired I had the injectors fitted so it has never been back on the car.

Like I say I'm torn with what to do with the old girl so don't shout at me if I choose to do nothing. I wanted to put it out there in case somebody wanted a project or enough people needed parts to make it viable for breaking.

Hello
Also do you have towbar , thanks

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

That could be fixed for a lot less and you are throwing parts are it which are not needed.

Rear caliper, at most, overhaul both, £35 for seal kit
Discs & pads £60ish
2 cv boots £15ish
2 tyres £100ish
1 bottom arm £40ish

another years driving - PRICELESS

Replacing drive shafts because it needs cv boots is like changing the alloys because the tyres need replaced.

[CPH]

Originally Posted by NI_Volvo_Nut

That could be fixed for a lot less and you are throwing parts are it which are not needed.

Rear caliper, at most, overhaul both, £35 for seal kit
Discs & pads £60ish
2 cv boots £15ish
2 tyres £100ish
1 bottom arm £40ish

another years driving - PRICELESS

Replacing drive shafts because it needs cv boots is like changing the alloys because the tyres need replaced.

That depends on your perspective. I find the old adage, do it cheap, do it twice applies far more often than you'd think.

CV Joints - they're shagged to be blunt. I've put more CV boots on in the last two years than I dare recall. It's a ****ty, mucky, horrible job to do properly and the only other way to do it is fit a stretch boot, which lasts about 30 minutes. Garage wanted £50.00 a side to fit a stretch boot!

On the other hand a pair of new complete drive shafts, guaranteed for 24 months for £120.00............

Tyres have been done, £96.00 for a pair of good ones!

Managed to get a good deal on clearance stock of lower arms, £50.00 for a pair.

I'm ****ed if I'm farting about with reworking the old callipers. A pair of brand new callipers for £110 and job done, one off, one on, hassle free and will remain hassle free for a while to come. Some breakers are still asking £80.00 each for rear callipers!

I've decided discs and pads at the back aren't nearly as bad as they were made out to be, easily reusable.

Each to their own and yes I could do it a lot cheaper but I'd rather not be repeating the same work in 6 - 12 months time.

[Martin Cox]

Pleased to hear you're keeping it on the road. Now to get mine going again!

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

Originally Posted by CPH

That depends on your perspective. I find the old adage, do it cheap, do it twice applies far more often than you'd think.

CV Joints - they're shagged to be blunt. I've put more CV boots on in the last two years than I dare recall. It's a ****ty, mucky, horrible job to do properly and the only other way to do it is fit a stretch boot, which lasts about 30 minutes. Garage wanted £50.00 a side to fit a stretch boot!

On the other hand a pair of new complete drive shafts, guaranteed for 24 months for £120.00............

Tyres have been done, £96.00 for a pair of good ones!

Managed to get a good deal on clearance stock of lower arms, £50.00 for a pair.

I'm ****ed if I'm farting about with reworking the old callipers. A pair of brand new callipers for £110 and job done, one off, one on, hassle free and will remain hassle free for a while to come. Some breakers are still asking £80.00 each for rear callipers!

I've decided discs and pads at the back aren't nearly as bad as they were made out to be, easily reusable.

Each to their own and yes I could do it a lot cheaper but I'd rather not be repeating the same work in 6 - 12 months time.

Do it right and you wouldn't be doing it again is 6 months time