240 General: B230FT and M90 swap queries

[2me]

My brother in law is a fabricator so he will make up my down pipe. I'm planing on getting a link pipe from viking fabrications so my down pipe will need to suit that. I haven't given turbos much thought as I'm more interested in getting it up and running first. Might eventually go v band on the downpipe to turbo will have to see.

Yes the weld it yourself mount from Dai is something I'm considering had not spotted it on his site originally.

Think Ive sourced a propshaft spacer, I'll post anout it once Ive fitted it.

[Bugjam1999]

Sounds like a useful brother-in-law…

A link pipe from Martin will open up a lot of opportunities regarding turbo choice as you’ll have more space. A few things to note:

300bhp is generally accepted to be the limit of stock rods- if you’re looking at a link pipe so you can run a big turbo, consider fitting H-beam rods to the new engine before fitting it

You can fit pretty sizeable turbos on the stock manifold- I have a 19t there, I’ve seen a gtx3071r fitted there too.

In the interests of getting up and running with minimal fabrication, you could stick with the standard 13c turbo (or that 15g I linked to) on the manifold in the original position. Moving the turbo forward on a link pipe will require a new oil feed, oil drain and connections to the cooling system (the 15g uses the same pipework as the 13c).

What are your power goals? A 19t will get you to 300hp just about with a decent intercooler and a decent tune.

My car made 186bhp on the 15g and currently has 263bhp with the 19t (needs more fuel taking out of the top end which will result in more power, need to get back to the dyno…)

Cheers

[2me]

My plan is anything I am buying / installing would support 300bhp but in reality I will be running 200bhp to 250bhp more worried about drivability than outright power.

The link pipe is for now more about getting more room for the down pipe and keeping heat away from the braking components.

This years plan is to get it up and running and next winter I might pull it apart and upgrade if I like how the car drives & feels with the new engine.

[2me]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

Hi,

I wrote this guide a while back that covers most of it.

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=290295


5. Your instrument cluster is fine- my car was also k-jet before I swapped it. There is an output on the back of the speedo for the speed signal 2.4lh needs to activate the idle circuit when you come to a stop.

Throw out any other questions you have, it’s a well trodden path now and a lot of people have converted 240s in the the U.K. so any issues you have will have been tackled before.

Cheers

What did you do to make your speedo work? maybe Ive mixed up but I though if you swapped over to LH2.4 the K Jet Speedo would not work. Ive read so much info in the last few days that I may have mixed this up with something else.

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by 2me

My plan is anything I am buying / installing would support 300bhp but in reality I will be running 200bhp to 250bhp more worried about drivability than outright power.

The link pipe is for now more about getting more room for the down pipe and keeping heat away from the braking components.

This years plan is to get it up and running and next winter I might pull it apart and upgrade if I like how the car drives & feels with the new engine.

Unless you’re fitting a massive turbo, there’s no need to fit a link pipe- The standard manifold with a 2.5inch downpipe (and rest of the exhaust) will support more than 300bhp.

If you’re concerned about heat next to the master cylinder etc. then your money would be better spent on a turbo blanket and heat wrapping the downpipe.

For context, I don’t have either and the brakes only get overwhelmed with heat after a while on track and that’s not from the turbo, that’s from the brakes themselves getting overheated and the cast calipers not being able to shed heat quickly enough (I’ve got a plan for that, but that’s another story).

The 13c or 15g (or 19t for that matter) all make for a very drivable car as they’re all pretty small turbos really.

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by 2me

What did you do to make your speedo work? maybe Ive mixed up but I though if you swapped over to LH2.4 the K Jet Speedo would not work. Ive read so much info in the last few days that I may have mixed this up with something else.

What year is your car?

Volvo swapped from a cable drive speedo connected to the gearbox to an electronic speedo with a sensor on the diff cover in 1984 (I think). If you have k-jet rather than a carb then I expect your car will be young enough that you have an electronic speedo and no changes are needed (apart from connecting up the new engine loom to the speed signal output on the back of the speedo cluster so 2.4lh works properly at idle).

Cheers

[2me]

Mines an 89 so looks like I'm OK on the speedo. Thanks

[2me]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

Unless you’re fitting a massive turbo, there’s no need to fit a link pipe- The standard manifold with a 2.5inch downpipe (and rest of the exhaust) will support more than 300bhp.

If you’re concerned about heat next to the master cylinder etc. then your money would be better spent on a turbo blanket and heat wrapping the downpipe.

For context, I don’t have either and the brakes only get overwhelmed with heat after a while on track and that’s not from the turbo, that’s from the brakes themselves getting overheated and the cast calipers not being able to shed heat quickly enough (I’ve got a plan for that, but that’s another story).

The 13c or 15g (or 19t for that matter) all make for a very drivable car as they’re all pretty small turbos really.

Will definetly plan for wrapping the DP and the turbo blanket is a good idea also. Thanks