|
General Volvo and Motoring Discussions This forum is for messages of a general nature about Volvos that are not covered by other forums and other motoring related matters of interest. Users will need to register to post/reply. |
![]() |
|
Swirl actuator controlViews : 718 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
![]() |
#1 |
New Member
Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2024 14:32
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Kettering
|
![]()
The last service on my XC90 flagged up a fault code for the swirl actuator control that has a rod broken and leaking oil. There is no impact on performance. The repair will cost over £1000. Is it an essential fix or can I carry on driving without getting it repaired?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Jul 1st, 2024 19:45
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Cambridgeshire
|
![]()
If it's just the rod, you can replace these easily and for not much money, although if the connecting link on the arm itself is worn you may find it comes off again.
As long as it's not leaking a lot of oil you should be fine. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
New Member
Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2024 14:32
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Kettering
|
![]()
Thanks for the advice. The Health Check Report says the rod is broken and leaking oil - but the replacement will cost over £1000 as it is tricky to reach and get access to - allegedly! I am tempted to leave it and wait until my next service in 9 months - since there is no impact on performance and no obvious trail of oil. Are there any adverse consequences of leaving it?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Mar 29th, 2024 18:09
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Penzance
|
![]()
I lived with this 3-4 years. You can first replace the arm yourself, I did this twice as they're only a tenner. Then I ended up pinning mine on as the ball was too worn. This year I had to pay the repair bill as it was leaking 1.5 litres in 750 miles. Mine didn't drip on the floor either as it only leaked under load (on the move)
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 00:06
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Manchester
|
![]() Quote:
So long as the swirl flaps are still working (there's no error codes) and performance is fine, you should be able to put a new rod on it. I suspect the old one fell off because the ball socket end of the rod was worn. When you replace it, you need to find a way to keep it held on (tying wire works). The downsides of not having the rod connected is increased fuel economy and the engine can be rough/unsteady at idle. Its not the end of the world to leave the rod off, but all the same, it should be working and operational.
__________________
2007 S80 2.4 D5 (P3) - 110,000 miles 2008 V70 2.4 D5 (P3) - 163,000 miles |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
New Member
Last Online: Mar 2nd, 2024 14:32
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Kettering
|
![]()
Thanks for the advice from everyone. Tempted to leave it for now!
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Today 02:44
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Midlands
|
![]()
Sent my car into Volvo as fault codes came up when I booted it the other day I revved it up and happened when accelerating.
checked when got home, found the swirl flap connecting rod had come off one end (the swirl flap end) and there was a bit of oil around the swirl flap end Did my own scan, got codes P2004 intake manifold runners stuck open and P0101 MAF out of range they said its the swirl flap actuator on their proper code reader, Said they first need to check wiring and linkage, At dealership said £350 for further checks and wiring. They have now sent me a quote for £1157, that just says "wiring check and linkage" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|