Advise on changing a clutch 2014 awd d4 xc60

[mat80]

Some I thought I would post just some details on how I did the job as it is now completed.

I used some 2x4 timber across the engine bay to hold the engine while I removed the lower supports and also used this to control the lift of the gearbox when I refitted it as I did not want the weight to damage the spigot, I also used the 2x4 to go under the sump extending under the gearbox and some 15mm copper pipe fitted nicely in a slot at the bottom of the gearbox to slid it out in a level manner.

I bought vida which provided me with all the torque wrench settings although I think I could have just done it by feel!

I removed the steering wheel to rack connector (which is just one bolt) as I did not want to put any strain on the rack - this was much easier than I had thought it would be.

I did get the tool to fit the clutch although I still think I could have just done it carefully (see you tube) not sure this was worth the money - but a lot of work wasted if it had not worked.

Vida tells you not to use a pressure bleeder when bleeding the clutch, I personally do not think you can do the job without one.

I still think I could have kept the drive splitter attached to the engine and not removed the rear propshaft - but I did to be sure.

I used castrol oils in the end as I could not find better and I bought volvo anti freeze as I could not be sure what was compatible.

As I had not driven the car before I did the work I can not tell if I broke the remaining problems while fixing the clutch so I still have these problems - horns broken , oil level greyed out , slight whining from the cam belt which is next weekends job.

I also had a problem with the left light that said service required - this was not fixable with vida as it told me a board under the dash needed changing, but a new head light fixed it without using vida , also need to fix a door lock that does not lock.

think that's all that's relevant ...

[PaulGT3]

I just removed the subframe as you did, wasn't that hard once the front bumper was off. Didn't bother disconnecting the steering column, just hung the rack up - didn't seem under that much strain. I didn't bother with a special auto adjusting clutch tool, just tightened it up carefully and the springs on the pressure plate stayed compressed. I used a jack with block of wood to support the engine and an engine hoist to lift the gearbox into place which made that part of the job really easy, there is a lug on the top of the gearbox that allows you to lift it balancing it at the right angle.

Also didn't use a pressure bleeder for the clutch, just gravity bled it for around ten minutes making sure the fluid was kept topped up. Tightened the nipple up and pressed clutch down a few times which felt good but gravity bled it for another 5 minutes just to be sure. No issues at all with that.

Also struggled to get hold of a flywheel so ended up at the main dealer - £620 including the bolts, ouch! But there was no other alternative, everywhere else was out of stock. Got the clutch (LUK repset including slave) for just under £300 from GSF car parts.

Whole job took me 3 long days (FWD model) but done around 1500 miles since with no issues.

[mat80]

Originally Posted by PaulGT3

I just removed the subframe as you did, wasn't that hard once the front bumper was off. Didn't bother disconnecting the steering column, just hung the rack up - didn't seem under that much strain. I didn't bother with a special auto adjusting clutch tool, just tightened it up carefully and the springs on the pressure plate stayed compressed. I used a jack with block of wood to support the engine and an engine hoist to lift the gearbox into place which made that part of the job really easy, there is a lug on the top of the gearbox that allows you to lift it balancing it at the right angle.

Also didn't use a pressure bleeder for the clutch, just gravity bled it for around ten minutes making sure the fluid was kept topped up. Tightened the nipple up and pressed clutch down a few times which felt good but gravity bled it for another 5 minutes just to be sure. No issues at all with that.

Also struggled to get hold of a flywheel so ended up at the main dealer - £620 including the bolts, ouch! But there was no other alternative, everywhere else was out of stock. Got the clutch (LUK repset including slave) for just under £300 from GSF car parts.

Whole job took me 3 long days (FWD model) but done around 1500 miles since with no issues.

Just out of interest was the flywheel part no 415070110 ie the same as mine ? I also paid £600 + bolts which I got from ebay as the rest of the clutch, originally got the flywheel from ebay (twice) and was let down twice for a price of £500!

[Tannaton]

Originally Posted by mat80

Hi sorry about the late reply, I have eventually finished it and have been driving it for a couple of weeks, wished I had bought the fwd as it would have saved a lot of time, for some reason I could not get a flywheel for it as it seemed to be out of stock in europe and had to wait nearly two months to get one after being let down by 2 sellers + very expensive as it was dual mass.
anyway it was not overly complicated but lot's of parts and therefore many bolts to refit!
think it cost me 5 days all in all !
did you have to drop the subframe ? - you only need 90mm to remove the gearbox but I was not sure if it could be done so I removed it all and dropped the engine to the floor!

I think you can get away with dropping the subframe on one side but if doing it at home on axle stands I'd drop the subframe all day long - extra work but much better access.

[PaulGT3]

Originally Posted by mat80

Just out of interest was the flywheel part no 415070110 ie the same as mine ? I also paid £600 + bolts which I got from ebay as the rest of the clutch, originally got the flywheel from ebay (twice) and was let down twice for a price of £500!

Ah no, these were the parts I used (2.0 5cyl not 2.4)

Flywheel 31401173 £582.00
Bolts set of 10 9454743 £40.20