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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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oil light onViews : 5052 Replies : 28Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 13th, 2014, 08:46 | #11 |
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May 13th, 2014, 08:50 | #12 |
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May 13th, 2014, 10:25 | #13 | |
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May 13th, 2014, 10:38 | #14 |
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while the sump is off, it's good to inspect all o-rings inside and eventually replace them, and also, important to inspect for any play and color change in the rod bearings (when a bearing lacks lubrication because of oil sludge, it gets darker in color). Bearings can only be properly checked with the sump off, a spun bearing will typically get a low oil pressure light.
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May 13th, 2014, 11:18 | #15 | |
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May 13th, 2014, 11:38 | #16 | |
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) |
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May 13th, 2014, 15:28 | #17 |
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dropping sump is only a 20 min job, have seen one swapped on a T4, in less than 30 mins, may be sludged up, as often on high mileage cars, oil it taken right to limit as servicing done on mileage, so unless correct oil is used at every service, if something is blocked
something like low oil pressure can be a ticking time bomb, whats going on inside an engine is unknown and having oil light come one would stop me from driving car. just on a side thought, not sure if yours has grid inside filler neck, if not can you see oil being flicked around with cap off? |
May 13th, 2014, 18:54 | #18 | |
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I have never ever heard of a T4 being sludged out!......modern oils do not cause sludge. The garage must of put a low grade oil in to get extra work! .......you said the oil light never flickered before. Put some 10W 40 Castrol Magnetec in the engine together with another Volvo filter change and see the difference. Volvo recommend 30grade only for low mileage motors from new and are no good for 165,000 mile engines.....you have to move up a notch with the viscosity to counteract the wear.
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May 13th, 2014, 22:16 | #19 |
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Thank you all for your input, I hope to get on with this tomorrow, I will let you know what I find ?????
I'll be using your comments / advise as my manual !! Many thanks & fingers crossed..... |
May 13th, 2014, 23:12 | #20 |
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960kg: modern oils do not cause sludge.
There is no real difference between an old fashion conventional oil and a modern high tech Synthoil in terms of sludge formation. Sludge forms when the detergent additives in the oil are used up. There are two main additives based on Calcium and Magnesium compounds that combine with Carbon blowby products and keep them in suspension until the oil is changed (The oil filter will catch some of the sludge). Once they are used up, sludge starts to form. Obviously it forms a lot faster in an old engine with worn rings and a lot of blowby than a new one. The ability of an oil to prevent sludge formation relates directly to the amount of detergent additives in the oil and that can vary from 1000 ppm for a supermarket oil to 3000 ppm for oils like Mobil 1 0/40 or LM Synthoil 5/40. The actual type of base stock does effect the ability of an oil to clean the block, but makes no difference as regards resisting sludge formation when the detergents run out (In fact a Synthoil will dump sludge slightly faster than a conventional base oil if used past the point at which the detergents are used up). So it does not matter which oil you use, if it is in use for too long, it can result in some degree of sludge formation. The sludge then starts to obstruct the oil flow by blocking the oil pump intake or restricting the oil passageways, that raises the cylinder heads temp, which in turn results in varnish formation around the top end. When an engine that has been correctly serviced with good oil sludges out, the culprit is nearly always a very small HG leak that results in anti freeze contamination of the oil. Anti freeze reacts directly with the detergent additives and stops them working (It's an order of magnitude worse than water). So if you get any kind of HG leak, it's essential to make sure the block is cleaned up after the HG leak has been sorted. There have been a number of Black death epidemics in the past, like the famous Audi one in the US that was caused by the manufacturer recommending a rather long oil service interval in combination with the dealerships not using the recommended oil. That issue of garages and even dealerships using the wrong oil has still not gone away and recent checks done in the US revealed that 20% of bulk oil used was in fact outside the required API specs. I doubt if the situation in the EU is any different.
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) Last edited by skyship007; May 13th, 2014 at 23:21. |
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oil change, oil expert, oil filter, v40 2.0 t, warning light |
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