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Transmission Fluid Service

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Old May 28th, 2024, 13:48   #21
stuart bowes
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I haven't bothered with adaptations and I only did the counter reset once after the 3rd change (last of the first batch)

After my second round of fluid changes this month it seems everything has sorted itself out, no more of those random flares into 3rd (yet.. although it was only once every few hundred miles or so anyway)

I just did a 500mile round trip on a weekend in Wales this weekend and it ran like clockwork perfectly behaved, in all the gears including some steep bits where I was in low range for a while.. and when the missus accidentally pressed W without me realising and I was wondering why it was a bit gutless off the line

I thought the adaptations was more for when you change substantial parts like solenoids and the valve body and so on, just a fluid change shouldn't need it unless you're trying to solve a serious issue
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Old May 28th, 2024, 14:00   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stuart bowes View Post
I haven't bothered with adaptations and I only did the counter reset once after the 3rd change (last of the first batch)

After my second round of fluid changes this month it seems everything has sorted itself out, no more of those random flares into 3rd (yet.. although it was only once every few hundred miles or so anyway)

I just did a 500mile round trip on a weekend in Wales this weekend and it ran like clockwork perfectly behaved, in all the gears including some steep bits where I was in low range for a while.. and when the missus accidentally pressed W without me realising and I was wondering why it was a bit gutless off the line

I thought the adaptations was more for when you change substantial parts like solenoids and the valve body and so on, just a fluid change shouldn't need it unless you're trying to solve a serious issue
I think so too. I don't think adaption resets are strictly necessary.

Do you use any additives in your transmission? I notice Horton Cars use Lucas, which can help with slipping. Not a permanent fix of course, but cheaper than a rebuild.
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Old May 28th, 2024, 14:05   #23
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I put some lubegard in the first time, it may have helped a bit I'm not really sure to be honest, there's no real way of 'measuring' improvement is there

this time round I knew I had half a bottle left somewhere but my dad had done another of his 'tidy up the garage' things aka move everything around so I can't find it lol somewhat frustrating when it happens but what can you do, it is his garage.. the curse of retirement and too much free time I reckon

so no, I didn't put any in this time
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Old May 28th, 2024, 14:06   #24
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I enquired about adaptions when I had my local auto box specialist do a fluid change on mt car and was told it's not required or done unless there is a problem after a fluid change. Drive the car for a few weeks and if all good leave well alone, if clunking or flaring have the adaptions done
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Old May 28th, 2024, 17:03   #25
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I put some lubegard in the first time, it may have helped a bit I'm not really sure to be honest, there's no real way of 'measuring' improvement is there

this time round I knew I had half a bottle left somewhere but my dad had done another of his 'tidy up the garage' things aka move everything around so I can't find it lol somewhat frustrating when it happens but what can you do, it is his garage.. the curse of retirement and too much free time I reckon

so no, I didn't put any in this time
So when do you add the additive exactly? So let's say you've done your sump dumps, the fluid is cherry red and the level has been set. Do you pour the Lucas in then via the fill port? Wouldn't that affect the level, or is it so minimal that it won't make a difference?
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Old May 28th, 2024, 17:28   #26
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I was thinking along the same lines and thought it would be better if it was mixed in (although I suppose over time either way it would end up the same way)

I put it in the measuring jug when I was doing the refills and then just filled up to the right level on the jug with the ATF fluid

Mainly just so the fluid level should in theory be accurate. However important accuracy is on that exactly may be up for debate I suppose, I'm not pretending for a second to be any sort of expert on that lol
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Old May 28th, 2024, 17:35   #27
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On the topic of 'correct level' actually. This is sort of interesting if you're in to that kind of thing..

On previous fluid removal and top ups I was being mega accurate and checking the level, on being warm it was bang on the right line. But I was still getting the flare and over time I started to realise it was always after doing a hard right turn. Like the fluid was sloshing and starving one part of the 'box

Now on the latest drain / fill / gibbons x2 I did actually forget 1 whole litre somehow (got distracted I guess) and ended up having to do 200ml at a time until I got back to the right level. Which worked fine. Until the next day I checked and thought it was at the hot line when cold ? Baffled as to how exactly but there you go. Keep meaning to check that again actually

But now I've done a really long drive and on twisty gear-changey roads as well and it behaved perfectly no flaring at all I'm tempted to just leave it alone . If I get any funny smells or other unexpected symptoms I might drain a little out carefully
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Old May 28th, 2024, 17:41   #28
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OK actually the curiosity did get the better of me so I just checked again. Fluid at 'hot' line about 20mins after parking up from the drive home. So , at least 'warm' I dunno without getting VIDA out and checking properly. But I think it's fine I mean it's not over the line at least

Maybe having slightly less in it before was causing a bit of starvation, who knows
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Old May 29th, 2024, 12:18   #29
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I'm doing the same thing today....specifically, adding another 4 ounces (common fraction of an English quart -for those of you who tease me by saying they don't know-ha-ha) to my transmission.
I too was a tad low and would like to be in the 'hot scale' on a hot day.
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Old May 31st, 2024, 13:10   #30
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I spoke too soon.. although there is still improvement I think

I went round one particular corner which was known to cause the flaring if I was nailing it too hard, and it did still misbehave slightly

although now, instead of a big flare and waiting a second or so until it engages, this time it just sort of lurched and pretty much immediately went into gear with a slight 'thunk' which does appear to be a slight improvement over the previous issue

I know really the answer is stop caning it around everywhere like you've just stolen a boot load of gold from Turin and everything will be fine but that's no fun is it
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