Chris1Roll's return to 700 ownership

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

Didn't someone post a 'how to' thread about this one a while ago Dave? Something to do with fitting it at right angles to the original and modifying the cable mechanism?

I think you're right Alan but not sure where it is, if it exists.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I think you're right Alan but not sure where it is, if it exists.

I think I do remember something - but I can't recall where or when. Something to do with the chap using a cheap VW part costing about a tenner instead of the Volvo one at 80 sovs. Maybe someone (with a better memory than myself) will be able to find it?

Alan

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Othen

I think I do remember something - but I can't recall where or when. Something to do with the chap using a cheap VW part costing about a tenner instead of the Volvo one at 80 sovs. Maybe someone (with a better memory than myself) will be able to find it?

Alan

The other problem with the Volvo one is Volvo don't make them anymore. Those listed on ebay further up this thread are "remanufactured" and instead of the metal seal being nicely rolled over the edges all the way round (as per OE) it is peened over at regular intervals. More than likely this is more than sufficient for the needs of the valve but me being me, would have liked to have seen the complete edge folded/rolled over rather than regular peening.

[Chris1Roll]

Originally Posted by Othen

Didn't someone post a 'how to' thread about this one a while ago Dave? Something to do with fitting it at right angles to the original and modifying the cable mechanism?

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I think you're right Alan but not sure where it is, if it exists.

I did happen along that thread a while back. Can't find it now.
The problem I could see was that in order to make it work, as Alan says, the valve had to be inserted in line with the matrix, rather than at right angles to it as with the original. this means you have to make a 90 degree turn within the car (and of course shorten the factory pipes between it and the matrix).
Also it was just held in place by the pipes rather than being mounted, so presumably adjusting the temperature introduced a bit of movement, not that that would necessarily cause an issue.
If I remember correctly the person had pulled the hose through the bulkhead to do that and said they would definitely fit a grommet later....
I'd rather have something not prone to chafing running through the bulkhead, but all the barbed brass 90deg bends I can find don't have long enough legs.

Opinions on using copper pipe in the system - is there any risk of electrolytic effects?

By the time you'd faffed around with all that I'm not sure it would be much more effort to make a LHD one work - probably have to make a clamp for the cable outer and extend the inner somehow to reach to the other side of the valve. I think the difference in angle of the pipe entering the engine compartment could be dealt with easily enough.

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The other problem with the Volvo one is Volvo don't make them anymore. Those listed on ebay further up this thread are "remanufactured" and instead of the metal seal being nicely rolled over the edges all the way round (as per OE) it is peened over at regular intervals. More than likely this is more than sufficient for the needs of the valve but me being me, would have liked to have seen the complete edge folded/rolled over rather than regular peening.

To be fair, the one I have removed looks identical, to the photos on the ad and has an April '89 date code on it.


I'm probably not going to worry about it until after the MOT in August, its not like I need heat at the moment!

Originally Posted by Othen

I'm wondering whether the same has happened to this motorcar I'm watching on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334897760184

... the seller says 'It does have a couple of minor faults, the main being the heater matrix has been bypassed'. It has been for sale for a couple of months already, if it is still being offered after I move to Zummresette I may offer the chap £1,200, start walking away and see is he/she follows.

Quite possibly. Or it could be the matrix itself.
That said - and this might well come back to haunt me in the future - looking at it I'm not convinced a matrix change would be the nightmare "the internets" seem to profess, on our right hand drive cars without a/c. Upon pulling the kick panel off, the matrix is right there, held in with a plastic bracket.
All the how-to's I've seen have been LHD cars.
I also don't have a clutch pedal to worry about being in the way.
I could be totally wrong of course, and the matrix is just tantalisingly close!

(I did a matrix change on my dads truck years back. took pretty much two whole days, and in order to not have to have the ac discharged we still had to cut the bulkhead to enable the matrix to rotate out and then riveted a repair plate in afterwards. I only had three screws left over at the end though, which wasn't too bad!)

[Chris1Roll]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

This mornings quick job before going out was to make a start on sorting the non-functioning washer jets out.

[SNIP]

I didn't even bother trying to clean this filter

That went in the bin. If I'm the only one filling it up I can make sure I don't pour sand into it!

[SNIP]

One of the inlets snapped off the jet while cleaning so I also ordered some 'universal' fan type washer jets for the princely sum of £2.88. They were the only ones that actually gave the dimensions on them so I could tell if they would fit the holes.
We wiill see what the quality is like and whether the fan type are adjustable enough to work with the steep windscreen of the 700 series when they arrive
Failing that Brookhouse sell the standard ones for a few pounds.

LairdScooby very kindly posted me a decent filter for the washer bottle as mine was pretty much beyond cleaning so I popped that in when it arrived today, so thats the last part of the windscreen washer jet work completed (still have to get the headlmp wipers and washers fixed), which reminded me to report back on the other bits and pieces.

The universal jets were these ones:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384647428937
Quality was fine for £2.88 - I had to use a sharp knife to trim off the mould lines a bit.
Fitting was simple enough - the plastic nuts to retain them are too big to fit cleanly through the slit on the second skin of the bonnet so I found the best way was to slide it into place with a pair of long nose pliers, then use them to hold the nut under the hole in the bonnet and screw the washer on from the top rather than try to turn the nut.
Once the new silicone pipe and non-return t-piece had been fitted, a bit of adjustment with a thin bladed screwdriver had the spray hitting the screen in the right place.
I think they are quite a bit more effective than the originals too

I'm not too sure why they have a 'G' on them, and although they looked a bit different to the originals, I think the angularity of them matches the rest of the car:




Also I hadn't mentioned that when I orginally removed the bottle out I found some rust!
Only the retaining bracket though:


A good wire brushing and 2 coats of hammerite later and that was OK to refit...I only had green hammerite from another job, but this won't be seen.

[Laird Scooby]

Glad the filter landed safe and sound Chris, even though it took 4 days to get to you!

Bit late to say it now, i fitted S/V40 fanjets to my 760, straight fit and much better fan-mist spray pattern. Only about £4 delivered when i bought them.

Something that might still be of interest to you and others, i recently had a problem with my CR-V rear wash-wipe not working due to blocked jets. Couldn't find another jet for love nor money (it's a weird shape one so universals wouldn't work) but managed to clean it out and then fitted one of these in the hose feeding it :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234980007066

Shortly after sorting the rear one, the fronts blocked up, got a pair of universal jobbies for it and bought another filter that i just fitted yesterday. The filter can be unscrewed for cleaning so is a permanent thing, no need to periodically replace it.

Seems that seller is currently out of stock but other sellers have them. For the cost, i'd say it saves a lot of aggro clearing the washer jets!

[360beast]

It's been a while since I've seen a battery tray that clean that's not been welded up! I would highly recommend getting some dinitrol between the back of the battery tray and the wheel arch where that slight lip is to stop the rust from starting in the first place.

[Chris1Roll]

This first month I've done about 450 miles in the car. Fuel consumption on the last tank improved with a longer run mixed in with the school runs and general pootling about - 25.2 mpg now. I used to get 29-30 from the ones I had before with the M46 box, so 25 with an auto doesn't seem too bad.

It hasn't used any oil or coolant, and I think the first drain and fill of the autobox has helped already - some of the 2-3 and 3-4 are imperceptible. 1-2 still a bit bumpy sometimes, but better than before. I'll do a second and third this month.
(It's going to be a 'drain and fill month' in fact, as we've decided we don't want the gearbox 'specialist' touching our V70XC again so I'm going to run the 16 litres of 3309 I have in the shed through it and if that doesn't work just drive it in manual mode until it dies then maybe have a go at it myself. Can't do a worse job of it!)


With a free afternoon today, I decided I should probably make some effort to dry out the drivers carpet.
I was able to just loosen the trim to the bottom of the door apeture in order to get the panel around the fresh air vent off and then slip the carpet and sound deadening out from under it without having to risk any broken clips etc.
When it came to the choice between removing the centre console, passenger carpet etc to get the sound deadening out 'properly', or neatly cutting it on the centre console, I feel no shame in saying I chose the 'cut it' route!
After that it was a case of getting a spatula under the fibrous stuff that had glued iteself to the floorpan, it came off fairly well.


I'm pleased to say there was no rust:

I cleaned all the stickiness off with soapy water.
I'll leave all the carpet and stuff out for a couple of weeks so it is all thoroughly dry before refitting. I was tempted to put it on a gentle was in the machine but the spectre of removing a handkerchief sized piece of carpet stopped me.

Eclectic selection of under-seat findings:



Slightly alarmingly just now, while I had it facing the mirrors I use for parking it in the space at home I thought I'd check all the lights. When i flicked on the high beams, they worked, and then when I glanced down to check the tell-tale was lit there was just the faintest whisp of dissipating magic smoke from the area of the stalk

Since I had just washed it the hose was right there in case of disaster, so I perhaps foolhardily switched them back on again for a minute with no repeat. I expect it was just a dirty switch contact that hasn't been used for a long time burning off some gunk, but I'll be having that out to investigate the wiring and cover everything in contact cleaner before using them again.

[Laird Scooby]

The fibrous stuff didn't glue itself to the floorpan

Volvo glued it to the floorpan in that specific position as it's extra heat insulation over the cat. Even non-cat cars have it (just in case the bodyshell is destined to have a cat or is retrofitted later), was going to add a pic of mine but seems i didn't take one.

[Chris1Roll]

Well its unstuck now anyway!
I thought it was just the tar like anti-resonance panels it had stuck to but you're probably right that it was stuck down on purpose.
Going to be bit hotter and noisier in there for a few days.

As an aside, I specifically wanted one without a cat. The independents we used to use a lot back in the day used a lot of their low value part-ex's as courtesy cars, so I got to drive quite a selection of 700s. Without fail the catalysed versions of a given engine felt utterly strangled compared to the non-cat versions. I know things moved on a lot in the mid nineties but the ones in the 80's and early 90's were seriously restrictive imho.
That said, I have ended up with a 2 litre auto But its better than ending up with a 2 litre auto with a cat, that would be the worst option!