V50 Engine 2.0D : Increased fuel consumption

[Teddy1975]

I'll check the two for the flaps tomorrow. Are they easily accessible from above?

[Teddy1975]

I managed to get to the top vacuum solenoid of the two that are located under the alternator. It checked out electrically, 16 ohms across the pins and eventhough it was filthy on the outside its filter wasn't as bad as the one near the battery tray.

I can't see how it's possible to get to the bottom solenoid at the alternator from above. It's bolted to the same frame as the other, but from underneath. Nor can I see how it is possible to get to it from under the car either, as the AC sits directly underneath the solenoid.

The problem still persists, but this is the end of my troubleshooting, for now at least. The ground is covered by 8 cm of slowly melting snow, so I'm not about to lift the car onto jack stands and have a look from below before the weather improves.

[Teepee]

How is it going with the problem? Did you continue trying to solve it or did you get rid of the car? I have exactly same things going on with my V50 2.0D -08 and it's driving me crazy. It's regening constantly and avg fuel consumption keeps rising to 6.5-7l/100km. I have changed DPF, EGR valve, MAF sensor, DPF sensor and filled Eolys tank. First I changed to aftermarket DPF sensor but it gave too low readings causing constant service message and limp mode because of "signal too low" "faulty signal" etc. so I bought genuine DPF sensor which works perfect and got rid of this service message and limp mode limbo. So only issue now is this very frequent regen cycle. Last drive was 100 km and kept regening all that time. Sometimes it stopped for 10 seconds and then started again. DPF sensor readings are something like 10 kpa at idle and 50-60 kpa on highway but it spikes close to 300 kpa on heavy acceleration. Monitored catalyst temperatures and they go over 600C while it's regening.

[Teddy1975]

I still have the car despite the problem is still there. But, the regens don't happen back to back any longer after I replaced the DPF.

I reset the odometre whenever a regen starts and that happens around 105-125 km travelled since last regen was initiated. A regeneration on motorway lasts about 10 km if I can maintain 2000+ rpm for the duration. If the regen starts in a city or on country roads with varying rpms, I can sometimes drive 20-25 km before it is completed.

I have replaced the same sensors that you have, plus the MAP and IAT sensor. And all the injectors, DPF, etc.

I thought it might be due to Eolys not being mixed into the fuel, but yesterday I managed to fill about 1 litre into the tank, and that's pretty much as expected with what I've driven since the last time I tried.

My car's engine is getting close to 350k km now and I'm guessing that it might simply be its age that's showing in the frequent regens. Two different Volvo certified mechanics told me that there are no faults with the car (none that they could read out anyway) and it's simply doing what it's supposed to do. I don't know but I do know that I drive mostly long trips, 80 km or more, at least half of which is on motorway, although I do some short trips every now and then as well.

I've given up on sorting it and come to reluctantly accepting that it won't do more than 6l/100 km which is close to spec anyway and that I have to keep a close eye on the oil level. I change oil every 12000 km now, and only fill it with about 3.5 litres to allow for the diesel that finds its way into the sump when regenerating. It's the only car I've owned where I can drain more from the sump than I filled in, about 2 litres extra.

Sorry for not being able to help you more,
Teddy

[IainG]

Hi

Originally Posted by Teddy1975

I still have the car despite the problem is still there. But, the regens don't happen back to back any longer after I replaced the DPF.

I reset the odometre whenever a regen starts and that happens around 105-125 km travelled since last regen was initiated. A regeneration on motorway lasts about 10 km if I can maintain 2000+ rpm for the duration. If the regen starts in a city or on country roads with varying rpms, I can sometimes drive 20-25 km before it is completed.

I have replaced the same sensors that you have, plus the MAP and IAT sensor. And all the injectors, DPF, etc.

I thought it might be due to Eolys not being mixed into the fuel, but yesterday I managed to fill about 1 litre into the tank, and that's pretty much as expected with what I've driven since the last time I tried.

My car's engine is getting close to 350k km now and I'm guessing that it might simply be its age that's showing in the frequent regens. Two different Volvo certified mechanics told me that there are no faults with the car (none that they could read out anyway) and it's simply doing what it's supposed to do. I don't know but I do know that I drive mostly long trips, 80 km or more, at least half of which is on motorway, although I do some short trips every now and then as well.

I've given up on sorting it and come to reluctantly accepting that it won't do more than 6l/100 km which is close to spec anyway and that I have to keep a close eye on the oil level. I change oil every 12000 km now, and only fill it with about 3.5 litres to allow for the diesel that finds its way into the sump when regenerating. It's the only car I've owned where I can drain more from the sump than I filled in, about 2 litres extra.

Sorry for not being able to help you more,
Teddy

How are you determining the car is regenerating? Purely by the increase in fuel consumption? Or another way?

I can tell sometimes when on the motorway due to the change in fuel consumption but not always sure. Hard to tell sometimes with hills and traffic!!

[Teddy1975]

Mostly I can tell from a slight jerk and surge just when it starts, then the fuel consumption increases. During regen, it won't coast when lifting off the gas pedal, but the consumption will slowly drop down and settle at around 1-2l per 100 km.

Also the drive gets quite lumpy and engine will respond somewhat sluggishly on throttle changes, sort of a turbo delay.

The lumpiness of the drive led me to believe that the aftermarket EGR valve (Delphi Technologies) I had installed was malfunctioning, yet installing a genuine blue box Volvo EGR valve hasn't changed anything at all but put a big hole in my wallet.

Things done:
All 4 injectors changed, 1 measured faulty
All 4 glow plugs changed, 1 was faulty
IAT, DPF, MAP, MAF sensors changed
EGR valve changed, Delphi
DPF changed, cured the back to back regens, but still suffering from too-frequent regens now
DPF hoses changed and DPF changed again, this time to the cheapest on the market. Works exactly the same as the one 3 times more expensive, although slightly louder exhaust
EGR valve changed again, Volvo

Total spent: I don't know, but at least what I paid for the car when I bought it. My next car will certainly not be a diesel and probably not even a Volvo. Right now, I have my eyes set on the new MG5 electric wagon, but need to save some money and of course, I also have to test drive one first before making up my mind. It looks a bit like a Volvo V60 in my eyes: https://news.mgmotor.eu/wp-content/u...LECTRIC-03.jpg

[IainG]

Hi
I was getting lumpy running and my oil level was rising.
Since I had my car (2008) it has always brought up a glow plug fault on VIDA. I was told by the garage it was a “ghost” fault and to ignore it. I did for many years. However in the winter, when cold it ran a bit lumpy for a few minutes and was then OK. I did a resistance check on the glow plugs from the multi plug and found 3 out of the 4 were open circuit. So earlier this year I changed the glow plugs and the fault code has finally gone after 16 years!! As the glow plugs are used during regeneration I thought it would help. I then topped up the EOLYS and replaced the DPF. The oil level no longer rises so I assume the regens are now effective.
My original EGR was a Delphi one. It was actually sticking and I replaced with a Delphi one again. My last issue is a slight hesitation whilst driving, the same as if it is regenerating. I don’t have any fault codes at all now apart from AQ sensor which I have decided to ignore. I might get my injectors tested next.
I also did my DPF hoses as one had partially failed. As it was only a partial fail VIDA interpreted it as an electrical error so took a while to find. The joys of motoring!, Just tried to confirm my fuel pressures are OK today. I think they are fine. The first graph is going up a long hill and going up through the gears. Seems OK. The second graph is going along a long flat road with a fairly steady load. The fuel pressure seems steady. I was experiencing the engine hesitation at the time so it looks like it is not fuel pressure related. Hence going to get the injectors tested. I was hoping to be able to graph the signal going to the injectors so I could confirm that is steady but didn’t see that listed.