|
General Volvo and Motoring Discussions This forum is for messages of a general nature about Volvos that are not covered by other forums and other motoring related matters of interest. Users will need to register to post/reply. |
Information |
|
Auto Gearbox Noise.. Quick Answer ThreadViews : 148449 Replies : 66Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Aug 18th, 2011, 00:16 | #1 |
Owner Volvovehiclesclub
Last Online: Apr 4th, 2014 12:18
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Choosing which Volvo to go out in Today !!! lex parsimoniae
|
Auto Gearbox Noise.. Quick Answer Thread
Ok... Just recently I have noticed there is alot of "I have a Gearbox Noise" Threads so I thought I'd Post this up to help Forum Members out in their Questions..
The Most Common type of Gearbox in Volvo's is the ASW 55-50 SN so we'll assume we're "Working" on that..... Noises from Gearboxes can come in many many forms but most can be "Solved" (Or at least "Lessened") by changing/Flushing out the old gear oil ect WHEN DO I FLUSH IT If the fluid smells of "burnt toast" consider changing it if the colour is more "brown" or "black" than a cherry aid "red" consider changing, If you do a lot of towing , city driving in heavy traffic, then consider checking the oil smell/colour at about the 50k miles mark, and then every 20k after, and when its looking "brown" more than red, start saving up to change it "sooner" Rather than LATER HOW DO I FLUSH IT Auto Boxes come in two "Bits" the Box itself & the Torque Converter each "Bit" is filled with oil but only the Box Itself can can be "Flushed" the torque Converter CANNOT (it has NO DRAIN POINT) the Box contains 3.6 Litres of Oil & the Torque Converter contains 3.8 Litres of Oil A. Get under the car & locate the Gearbox Drain Plug undo this & allow the old Oil to Drain into a suitable container. B. Refit the Drain Plug & fill up with Gear Oil NOTE IT MUST BE JWS 3309 SPEC This IS available from Local "Car Shops" but you MUST READ THE SMALL PRINT to ensure you have the correct oil C. Top up to the Correct Level & Drive the car for Approx 2 Days (As Normal) D. Repeat steps A & B After driving E. You MUST repeat steps A & B at least 4 to 5 times to ensure you have completely "Changed the Oil" in BOTH the Box & the Torque Converter. OVERVIEW When changing the Oil in the Gearbox the new Oil mixes with the Old Oil in the Torque Converter thats why its necessary to change it Several times As said above its approx a 50 / 50 split between the two & just draining the 3.6 Litres out of the box will NOT be sufficient to effect any change in the Gearboxes operation. If your Working to a Budget then set aside approx £150 to £200 to do the job properly The Oil is About £6 to £9 per litre & you'll need 16 litres MINIMUM to do the change. It should be noted however that not all "Gearbox" Clunks & Noises are actually Gearbox related some are far from that E.G. worn or damaged Engine Mountings can cause "Clunks" when driving off from Traffic Lights things like this MUST BE CHECKED & Eliminated before going down the Gearbox Oil Change route. Another common mis conception is Gearboxes are "Sealed for Life" .. They are not the AWS 55-50 SN box is NOT unique to Volvos they are fitted into many other cars & use Different Identifier Codes 2006– Pontiac Torrent (GM code M09 (FWD), M45 (AWD)) 2004– Chevrolet Equinox (GM code M09 (FWD), M45 (AWD)) 2004 Saturn Ion (GM code M43) 2003–2005(?) Volvo XC90 2.5T engine only 2002–2008 Lancia Thesis 2002–2005 Opel Vectra C and Opel Signum 2002–2003 Saturn Vue V6 2003-2007 Saab 9-3 (GM code M09) 2004-2006 Nissan Maxima, Nissan Quest, Nissan Altima under Nissan part number RE5F22A, built by Aisin 2001-2007 Renault Laguna V6 and 2.2dci (code SU1) 2001-2005(?) Volvo S60 2004 Volvo S80 (2.5T) 2006– Volvo C30, S40, V50 (T5) 1997-2002 Volvo C70 (Phase 1) 1999- Volvo S/V/C 70 Volvo owners manuals list the transmission as fill for life, meaning that there are no scheduled transmission fluid changes under normal operating conditions. This is controversial and believed by some to be a major contributing factor to increased valve body wear, eventually causing transmission problems that require valve body repair or replacement, and possible transmission overhaul or replacement. Every Auto Tranny Mech I've ever spoken to recommend regular fluid changes, at least every 50,000 miles. JWS 3309 must be used. If incorrect fluid is used it will result in "improper operation" and eventual Box failure. Lets look at it this way a AW55-50SN Box is EXACTLY THE SAME as a RENAULT LAGUNA SU1 002 Box (its made in the same factory & Probs on the same Machine) yer read a Volvo Manual & its "SEALED FER LIFE" & then yer read a RENAULT MANUAL & its "Change Oil Every 50,000 Miles !!!" Rather Confusing isn't it ??? As you can see the "oh I'll Change the Tranny Oil on Sat" thought is NOT AN OPTION & BEFORE you go down THAT route check your ..... Engine Mountings Drive Shaft Bearing (both Inner & Outer) CV Joints Wheel Bearings Brake pads (fer "Binding") Tyres (for Uneven Wear & Road Noise) Brake Backplates (for "Catching" on the Wheel Hubs) ALL can & DO make "ODD" noises from Time to Time If you've tried everything else & your left with a Gearbox Oil Flush/Change then I hope this has been a useful read. & My Thanks to Andy D for his help & his "Proof Reading" Skills Keith
__________________
2000 C70 T5 Phase 1 240 Bhp in Saffron Orange ("SAPPHIRE") 2001 S80 2435cc Now with Andy Northface () 1994 960 CD 3.0 Estate ("The Purple Monster") VOC 25900 lex parsimoniae Last edited by The Hooded Claw; Aug 18th, 2011 at 00:59. |
The Following 31 Users Say Thank You to The Hooded Claw For This Useful Post: | 961, andy_d, Aveton Gifford, buick boy, capt jack, Christerart, Darth Vol, DG651, DickyB V70R, Drivetest, Fat Magpie, galloot633, Goldie350, gowerboy, grapefruit, ian ferguson, lyron, Mike Stephenson, olimpiu l, Orca2, PeteB1, Rotty78, RUTV70, S60D5-185, silverback02, SimonLind, sparkeysteve, speedy1959, treehorndogsbody, Volvo2002, Will M |
Aug 18th, 2011, 01:07 | #2 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Yesterday 20:45
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: birmingham
|
Many thanks keith
taking the "black magic voodoooo" out of autoboxes is needed, and you've done that nicely with the above.
__________________
940s - 2l / 92 < gone&missed s401.8 xs auto <gone >V50 2.4SE Geartronic aka "the new money pit" "skyship007 has now been successfully added to your ignore list. "." |
Aug 18th, 2011, 09:11 | #3 |
Member
Last Online: Jan 25th, 2023 20:53
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Aberdeenshire
|
Gold dust. Many thanks for this informative post!
|
Aug 18th, 2011, 12:26 | #4 |
Owner Volvovehiclesclub
Last Online: Apr 4th, 2014 12:18
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Choosing which Volvo to go out in Today !!! lex parsimoniae
|
I missed out the Obvious in the above post ....
HOW TO CHECK YOUR GEARBOX OIL LEVEL Gearbox Oil Level MUST be checked when the Engine is HOT using the following procedure.. A. Start Engine & run up to Normal Operating Temperature. B. "Cycle" gear lever thru EVERY GEAR TWICE (Move Gear shift from P to R to N to D To 1 To 2 To 3 to L) C. Check Dipstick for level (there are 2 Marks "HOT & COLD") make sure it on the "HOT" Mark. D. Dipsticks Come in two varieties Long & Short & are situated by the Front Left of the Radiator (Just by/Under the Battery Shelf) NEW CAR TO YOU ????? If you have just bought the car & do not know its History ect there is an advantage in taking it for a Short Drive BEFORE checking the Gearbox Oil Level, The Torque Converter only "Works" when the vehicle is Moving & a "Good" Oil level showing in the Box does NOT necessarily mean the Torque Converter is Full of Oil.... Take the car for a 2 to 3 Miles run at normal speeds/driving ect on stopping IMMEDIATELY Check the Oil with the Dipstick it should be at the "HOT" level. I personally have checked the Oil in my Sons Laguna & it was Correct but he was STILL experiencing poor Gear Shifting & "Clunking" .... On Investigation I found the previous owner had had the Gearbox Repaired & the "Mechanic" had refilled the Box to the Correct level but HAD NOT allowed for the Oil within the Torque Converter Hence we had a situation where the Box (At Ticking over/Standstill) APPEARED full but when Driving ALL this Oil was shunted into to T/C leaving the gearbox EMPTY & causing the Poor Gear shifting & "Clunkyness" The ONLY way to confirm BOTH the Box & the T/C is at the correct level is to Dip the Box IMMEDIATELY after a "Drive" (at this point Oil pushed into the Torque Converter has NOT had time to drain back into the Gearbox) NOTE*** The above is only applicable if you have just bought the vehicle & your "unsure" of the Gearboxes operation. You only need to carry out the Above ONCE & having confirmed that BOTH parts of the box are at the Correct level you can use the "Checking Guide" above to ensure it stays at the Correct Level. Keith NOTE****** Mr MODS (James / Des) .. Can you please "Merge" these two post of mine, I ran out of time on the "EDIT" Button & this bit is "BASIC" to the advise in Post No1. Cheers Keith
__________________
2000 C70 T5 Phase 1 240 Bhp in Saffron Orange ("SAPPHIRE") 2001 S80 2435cc Now with Andy Northface () 1994 960 CD 3.0 Estate ("The Purple Monster") VOC 25900 lex parsimoniae Last edited by The Hooded Claw; Aug 18th, 2011 at 12:31. |
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to The Hooded Claw For This Useful Post: |
Aug 18th, 2011, 12:46 | #5 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Feb 26th, 2016 19:58
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Exmouth
|
Admin - all,
Can we get this put as a Sticky please?? |
The Following User Says Thank You to SonyVaio For This Useful Post: |
Aug 18th, 2011, 14:27 | #6 |
arcturus
Last Online: Yesterday 07:35
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
Sory to contradict you but it IS possible to drain and completly change the oil in the auto trany.
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...onAutoAW30.htm This applies to other auto trans also. I've done it myself on a 940 & 960. Well worth the effort. I was told my converter was shot at 113,000 miles. Changed the oil and it's still going strong at 150,000.
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine |
The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to arcturus For This Useful Post: |
Aug 18th, 2011, 14:37 | #7 | |
Owner Volvovehiclesclub
Last Online: Apr 4th, 2014 12:18
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Choosing which Volvo to go out in Today !!! lex parsimoniae
|
Quote:
But Thank you for your Input much appreciated. Keith
__________________
2000 C70 T5 Phase 1 240 Bhp in Saffron Orange ("SAPPHIRE") 2001 S80 2435cc Now with Andy Northface () 1994 960 CD 3.0 Estate ("The Purple Monster") VOC 25900 lex parsimoniae |
|
Aug 18th, 2011, 15:17 | #8 |
RUTRUNNER
|
So (according to the list) a Phase I '99MY V70 could have a ASW55-50 box..?...I was under the impression (wrongly obviously) that the 50 box wasn't introduced until a little later..ie Phase II. (or maybe VERY late Phase I).?
My Classic '99MY V70 has the 42 box. Ya learn summat everyday.! Neil
__________________
classic V70 1999MY 20 valve non turbo, auto (adaptive) B5254. ETM/Denso Previous Volvos...264 auto...loved it. 340 manual...not so loved. 760 auto...loved it. |
Aug 18th, 2011, 15:22 | #9 | |
Owner Volvovehiclesclub
Last Online: Apr 4th, 2014 12:18
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Choosing which Volvo to go out in Today !!! lex parsimoniae
|
Quote:
Keith
__________________
2000 C70 T5 Phase 1 240 Bhp in Saffron Orange ("SAPPHIRE") 2001 S80 2435cc Now with Andy Northface () 1994 960 CD 3.0 Estate ("The Purple Monster") VOC 25900 lex parsimoniae |
|
Aug 18th, 2011, 15:28 | #10 | |
RUTRUNNER
|
Quote:
Neil
__________________
classic V70 1999MY 20 valve non turbo, auto (adaptive) B5254. ETM/Denso Previous Volvos...264 auto...loved it. 340 manual...not so loved. 760 auto...loved it. |
|
The Following User Says Thank You to RUTV70 For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|