HELP! D5 No start - Where is the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor?!

[Emeye]

I am trying to find the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor but I can't find it!

My old XC90 2003 163bhp D5 has decided not to start - I am getting P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input from my simple android bluetooth OBD reader. It had been stood for a good few months while I was ill - and ran enough to get me to the shops, but on the way back it cut out and I just managed to get it restarted and managed to get it home - the engine turns over but it will not start.

My thoughts are either a blocked fuel filter or may be I need a new Fuel Rail sensor but I cannot even find it to test it. My google skills are failing me - I can find videos on petrol Volvos showing the replacement - does the D5 even have one?

The fuel was very low when I used it so I added about £30 of fuel so there is enough diesel in it.


Thanks

[Familyman 90]

End of the rail, left hand side as you view the engine, if memory serves.

Thats where it is on my 185, but daughter is at work so can't nip out and eyeball her 163 for you.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Emeye

getting P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input

Be very careful as low signal can happen when the sensor is absolutely fine but pressure just isn't as expected.

Same with MAF low signal faults and a bit like how when the low fuel light appears on the dash, you wouldn't immediately suspect the level sensor in the tank.

Consider also the fuel pressure regulator bolted to the high pressure pump on the right of the engine block as you face it under the bonnet.

[Emeye]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Be very careful as low signal can happen when the sensor is absolutely fine but pressure just isn't as expected.

Same with MAF low signal faults and a bit like how when the low fuel light appears on the dash, you wouldn't immediately suspect the level sensor in the tank.

Consider also the fuel pressure regulator bolted to the high pressure pump on the right of the engine block as you face it under the bonnet.

Thanks - I am probably out of my depth here, but I like a challenge and it is stuck on my drive - I want to avoid sending it to the garage and spending a fortune on it. I have already spent a lot on new engine mounts and a driveshaft - if I can't get it working myself it will be sold as is.

One of the injectors looks like it is leaking a bit, but from what I have read and seen on youtube not enough to stop it starting.

It may be a case of replacing a few cheap parts and then giving up.

[cheshired5]

You can follow a video like this to capture live data during cranking and hopefully shed some light.
Same engine too and the channel has injector leak tests which are simple too.

From lots of experience, avoid undoing anything until you at least have some data to see where you're at.

[Emeye]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

You can follow a video like this to capture live data during cranking and hopefully shed some light.
Same engine too and the channel has injector leak tests which are simple too.

From lots of experience, avoid undoing anything until you at least have some data to see where you're at.

Thanks, I have already watch quite a few of his videos but not that one.

[T5R92011]

Whilst you should certainly do the necessary live data stuff, I will say that If you DO find yourself taking a gamble and buying a Fuel Pressure Regulator from ebay etc, my advice to you is this:

Unbolt the regulator from fuel pump before ordering.
It's THREE torx bolts (the third is harder to see and a little awkward to undo, need quite a slim long screwdriver for the torx bit)

Now physically compare the regulator in your hand with whatever you are ordering online, and I mean really observe everything.

e.g on your Euro 3 engine, the power connector points straight out
but on Euro 4 the power connector is at 90 degrees, and there are only 2 bolts not 3.
Pay attention to this when ordering because you will have lots of sellers saying their part is compatible with the entire P2 D5 range, and not acknowledging the difference between Euro 3 and Euro 4 engine.

Obviously the original regulator on your car will have part number on it for reference, but still do a thorough physical comparison before ordering to avoid disappointment!

Also, if you go for 2nd hand parts, I found it was actually cheaper to order the entire high pressure fuel pump (with regulator still bolted to it) than to order the regulator seperately! But again, observe the regulator that is attached to it and make sure it is identical to yours, from a 2004 or earlier Euro 3 D5, and that can obviously be from ANY P2 car... a V70, XC70, S60, S80 or XC90, as long as it's Euro 3 D5.

[reggit]

How much fuel is the gauge showing?
Assuming the tank is the same as the v70 anything less than (just under) 1/4 tank and a no-start could be pointing to the fuel pump or transfer pipe work in the tank.

Rail sensors, there’s one on the left of the rail (won’t start if it’s dead) and another as described above on the high pressure fuel pump, sound like a tractor if it’s dead, but will run sort of.

[Emeye]

Originally Posted by reggit

How much fuel is the gauge showing?
Assuming the tank is the same as the v70 anything less than (just under) 1/4 tank and a no-start could be pointing to the fuel pump or transfer pipe work in the tank.

Rail sensors, there’s one on the left of the rail (won’t start if it’s dead) and another as described above on the high pressure fuel pump, sound like a tractor if it’s dead, but will run sort of.

Would adding more fuel be worth trying then - I think it is under quarter full (can't check as at work)?

[reggit]

Originally Posted by Emeye

Would adding more fuel be worth trying then - I think it is under quarter full (can't check as at work)?

Definitely, if the pump is duff or transfer piping failed, the car can’t access the last bit of fuel. Mine (2002 v70 - not the one in the sig) expired with the gauge on the last white mark above red when the pump died.

Probs worth unscrewing drain bolt from bottom of the fuel filter (think it was the metal canister at this age) and seeing if there’s anything in it and seeing if there’s a steady flow with the ignition on - you obviously will need something underneath to catch any diesel.